Diamond Shape
November 20, 2019
These days diamonds come in all shapes and sizes to suit everyone’s preferences. Some diamond shapes are considered outdated or old-fashioned while others remain timeless & classic. Round brilliant diamonds are the most popular shape of diamond and because of this they’re also the most common.
A brilliant round diamond will typically:
consist of 57 sides
be incredibly shiny
come with a heftier price tag than diamonds of other shapes
Round diamonds have been cut for decades, and despite technological advancements evening the playing field between it and other shapes, they remain massively popular & are considered classic. After round diamonds, princess, oval and cushion shaped diamonds are the most popular.
Thanks to scientific developments, the diamond world is being revolutionized by new technologies that enable us to produce diamonds with their light reflection capabilities as the main priority. This advantage means that new techniques have been developed and older techniques have been modernized, refined and scientifically enhanced. While there’s no denying that when it comes to its interaction with light, round diamonds are the perfect stones, many other shapes are now coming to light and rising in popularity.
Diamonds that feature any shape other than round are referred to as ‘fantasy diamonds’ and are much cheaper than round diamonds. Fantasy diamonds boast a range of different designs and this is a very important factor to be considered. Tear-drop diamonds, for instance, can either be long and narrow or short and fat & look completely different in different ways. On top of this, special attention needs to be paid to ensure that the diamond itself is relative when compared to its surface area and isn’t rubbery in shape.
In more times than not, when you purchase a fantasy diamond you won’t receive all the specific information relating to the diamond because these diamonds don’t have a cut grading. Because of this, you need to investigate all options of fantasy diamonds to ensure the one you pick is the right option.
We’ll be taking a look at the different shapes of diamonds, so you can make the right decision.
The Different Shapes of Fantasy Diamonds
Princess Diamonds
Since its inception in the 60s, princess diamonds have risen in popularity and today are considered the most popular fantasy diamond. Princess diamonds are square in shape and their sides possess equal lengths, resulting in a clean look. Sometimes a princess diamond will be shaped more to resemble a rectangle but this is not very common.
Because of its unique structure and low level of core material loss, princess diamonds retain a larger surface area than that of a round diamond and thus appear bigger.
Remember: Princess diamonds need to be inlayed in such a manner that the teeth holding the diamond rest at the very tips of the diamond.
The downside to princess diamonds is that they require an extremely specific inlay technique which often means the resulting jewelry can’t be customized.
Cushion Diamonds
Cushion diamonds are making a comeback! These are the diamonds you’ll often see gracing the pages of jewelry magazines and adorning the bodies of prevalent figures in the fashion world. For over two centuries cushion diamonds were the preferred diamond shape thanks to the sturdy and durable design. As you may have guessed, cushion diamonds are typically square or rectangle in shape with rounded edges that give the diamond its cushion-like appearance.
Cushion diamonds produce a fair amount of sparkle which, when combined with its vintage styling, makes it a stunning option for many. With vintage being very much back in fashion these days, cushion diamonds are once again rising in popularity.
Remember: Cushion diamonds will often have a wide girdle which diminishes their overall surface area.
Tear-drop Diamonds
As the name implies, Tear-drop diamonds are shaped to look like a tear drop. Tear-drop diamonds are a combination of round and marquise diamonds, which makes them quite unique. While their elegant shape makes Tear-drop diamonds perfect for usage in earrings and pendants, today we’re seeing more of these on rings.
This is because they tend to make the finger appear more delicate & slender. Bear in mind that with Tear-drop diamonds, the shoulders of these diamonds are round and not flat & the tip of the diamond should always be aligned with the mid-point of its shoulders.
Remember: Tear-drop diamonds tend to be more expensive than other fantasy diamonds because they require precision cutting to appear symmetrical.
Oval Diamonds
Oval diamonds are extremely popular because they mimic the look of a round diamond, minus the hefty price tag. Oval diamonds usually boast unique designs while preserving a high amount of sparkle, which is another reason why lovers of round diamonds opt for this shape.
These diamonds are oval in shape and feature a flat surface area which makes them seem bigger than they are. While this is impressive, it also means that the risk of a rubbery look is present, so a properly polished finish is of the utmost importance.
Remember: Oval diamonds are known to produce a fair amount of sparkle but, due to the common occurrence of bow-tie shapes appearing within the rock itself, can often result in a darker shading.
This darker shading caused by the bow-tie effect can either add a unique, moody feel to the rock or make it look gloomy and unappealing so always be on the lookout for this before you buy.
Marquise Diamonds
The story behind the Marquise diamond will appeal to the inner romantic part found in all of us. Rumor has it that this diamond shape was specifically designed in the 1800s by Louis XV as tribute to the almond shape of his lover’s, Madame de Pompadour, lips. To this day, this shape of diamond remains highly exclusive and is not a common shape. More often than not, Marquise diamonds appear large in size thanks to the elongated design.
The bow-tie effect is also found in this shape of diamond, so be sure to keep that in mind when buying.
Remember: The downside to this classy shape of diamond is that the tips are sharp which can easily result in damage, so always ensure that the stone’s edges are sealed off. Most often this is done with a light coating of gold.
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Emerald Diamonds
Emerald diamonds are diamonds that have been shaped to look like the form of an emerald. Usually rectangle, but occasionally square, this diamond embodies elegance with a sassy dash of individualism. The emerald shape is achieved thanks to a step cut, as opposed to the side cut process that most diamonds undergo. This process results in a terraced feel rimming a large table.
In terms of how they look and the way they react with the surrounding light, this shape of diamond is unique when compared to more modern shapes. It remains popular thanks to its vintage feel.
Remember: this shape of diamond is not known for its shininess and it is tough to find one that is free from inclusions or blemishes. Aim for a high grade of clarity because in this shape of diamond, blemishes are easy to spot.
Asscher Diamonds
Asscher diamonds aren’t as common as other diamond shapes. Originating in 20th century Netherlands, this shape of diamond consists of a truly intriguing design. At a glance, Asscher diamonds are similar to emerald diamonds but upon closer inspection you’ll note that the table is smaller. The fundamental design elements, such as table size and step method, are the same.
It is difficult to get it right, which is why they are so rare. The incredible design appears as a square within a square within a square.
Remember: on top of the high level of craftsmanship that goes into producing this shape of diamond, the diamonds need to be of a high clarity to achieve the desired result. This means they can be expensive. Finally, these diamonds need to be as close to a perfect square as possible in order to achieve the desired visual effect.
Radiant Diamonds
Radiant diamonds are square or rectangle in shape and are shaped similarly to the Emerald cut diamond. The main difference between the two is that radiant diamonds are created by use of the traditional side cut. Radiant diamonds were the first shape of diamond to be polished by means of modern radiant polish and are well loved for their vintage look.
Extremely popular, even in spite of its risk of containing the bow-tie effect, radiant diamonds are considered modern and safe to inlay. The vintage appeal combined with its modern design makes this a good choice for those looking for a rectangular ring of a more classic appearance.
Heart Diamonds
Heart diamonds are the result of cutting diamonds to rid them from inclusions in an attempt to boost their clarity.
Not very romantic, right?
Regardless, today this shape is sought after because it represents love and comes in many variations. Some heart shaped diamonds will feature a short and wider design while others will boast an elongated & narrow design.
Remember: when shopping for heart shaped diamonds nothing is more important than the overall symmetry of the rock.
Keep this in mind when choosing which variation of this shape you would like and ensure that whichever inlay you pick highlights the unique heart shape instead of hiding it. Heart diamonds are on the more expensive side because it is so difficult to achieve a symmetrical heart shape and cannot be done on smaller diamonds.
Triangle Diamonds
Triangle diamonds are a unique shape and definitely an acquired taste. People who pride themselves on standing out and being different are the perfect wearers of triangle diamonds. While they trend every now and again, triangle diamonds don’t fit into the industry norm. Usually, Triangle diamonds are used as side diamonds, framing either side of a round or oval diamond. The tips of Triangle diamonds are usually sharp but can be rounded too, depending on what look you’re after.
Remember: Most triangle diamonds have flat surfaces and generally appear bigger than other diamond shapes because of this.
Triangle diamonds are perfect for invisible inlays, where six smaller diamonds are connected to give the impression of one solid 2 carat diamond.
Are You Opting for a Fantasy Diamond? Keep the Following in Mind
Due to the expensive nature of round diamonds, many people opt instead for a fantasy diamond. When you’re looking at purchasing a fantasy diamond it’s important to keep the following in mind:
Surface area: Because of the complex crafting that goes into achieving certain shapes, the surface area of fantasy diamonds is often small.
The bigger the surface area, the bigger the rock looks and thus the more expensive it will be.
A lot of the time, fantasy diamonds have a smaller surface area.
Variations: For all the different shapes of diamonds there are different variations of them.
For example, a heart shaped diamond could be elongated and narrow, or wide and chunky and a tear-drop diamond can be long or short.
What you purchase should fit your personal taste.
Consider the layout and the diamond’s appeal.
Shop around: When you think you’ve found the perfect shape of diamond, it’s important to shop around and look at different models of this shape to make sure you select the right one for the right price.
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Diamond Cut
November 19, 2019
Most people believe that the cut of a diamond is its shape. But this is incorrect. The cut of a diamond has nothing to do with whether it’s a marquise or a heart, but rather has everything to do with how the surrounding light interacts with its facets. One of a diamond’s best selling points is how it sparkles and flirtatiously twinkles away while nestled safely on your finger. While the quality and clarity of the diamond itself has a lot to do with that, the surrounding light that dances upon its facets has even more to do with it.
The Diamond Cut Scale
Diamond cuts are typically graded into 5 different categories. Let’s take a look a look at them.
Excellent
An excellent cut is the very best cut of diamond that money can buy. Regardless of the shape or proportion, these diamonds will possess an even pattern of bright and dark areas.
Very Good
A very good cut still grades high in terms of brightness, scintillation and final polish but has a darker pavilion main. Very good diamonds will usually feature a splintered pattern which slightly limits the accessibility for light to travel through its facets.
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Good
Diamonds with a good cut tend to sparkle less than the diamond cuts listed above. Dark pavilion mains are caused by the angles of the diamond. Good diamonds typically feature a darker ring around the edges, meaning it won’t shine as much as diamonds with a better cut will.
Fair
A fair cut is defined by its lack of contrast between light and dark & its overall darker appearance. While you can expect a fair amount of sparkle, diamonds in this cut range will not provide a lot of scintillation.
Poor
Diamonds with a poor cut feature low fire, brightness and scintillation meaning that while they’ll look beautiful on your person they won’t react beautifully with the light. A lot of the time a diamond is determined to have a poor cut due to a heavier weight.
The cut of a diamond is a huge determining factor to its value and aesthetic appeal which is why proper care needs to be taken when establishing the cut. Of all of the 4Cs, the cut is the most crucial. On top of this it’s also incredibly difficult to do and requires a complex analysis.
To establish the cut grade of the shape that remains most popular within the world of diamonds, the brilliant round diamond, GIA determines the grade by evaluating how a diamond interacts with the surrounding light and how desirable the visual effects of the diamond are.
A diamond’s cut is graded to assess:
Its brightness:
This refers to the white light reflected from a diamond, both internally and externally.
Its fire:
Ever noticed when the sun hits your diamond just right, an assortment of colors will appear and reflect all over nearby surfaces? This phenomenon is known as ‘fire’ in the diamond industry.
Its scintillation:
Scintillation, while you might not have heard of the term, is something all diamond owners will know well. It is the amount of sparkle produced by a diamond.
Also taken into account when determining the cut grade is the design of the diamond and its overall craftsmanship. This includes its relative weight, the durability of the girdle, the symmetry of the facets as well as the facets’ quality of polish.
Most jewelers grade the cut of their diamonds from ‘Excellent’ all the way down to ‘Poor’, so be sure to specifically inquire about a diamond cut before you choose it to become your new best friend.
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Diamond Clarity
November 10, 2019
Always remember that diamonds are gifts provided to us by mother nature. The polished diamond that ends up gracing your earlobes, dripping across your neck, or resting gently upon your finger didn’t always look the way it does now. No matter how gorgeous diamonds may be, they’re not without their flaws. And the more flaws a diamond has, the more value it loses. That’s where evaluating a diamond’s clarity comes into play.
Diamonds are formed in an environment of immense pressure and exponential heat. During the formation process in these harsh conditions, the diamond is exposed to conditions that result in inclusions and blemishes. These blemishes and inclusions are the two culprits that lead to a lesser clarity in diamonds. Many factors need to be carefully inspected and examined during the clarity classification process.
These factors include assessing: the number, nature, size, positioning and relief of blemishes on the diamond as well as how all of the above factors influence the overall aesthetic appeal of the diamond. No diamond is completely and utterly free from flaws, even though to the naked eye many of them appear to be. The closer to perfect a diamond is, the higher its value becomes.
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Let’s have a look at the different grades of diamond clarity, when examined under 10x magnification by highly experienced professional diamond graders:
Flawless: No blemishes nor inclusions are visibly present.
Internally Flawless: No inclusions are identifiable and only blemishes are visibly present.
Very, Very Slightly Included: Slight inclusions are visibly present upon extremely close examination.
Very Slightly Included: Inclusions are visibly present upon close examination.
Slightly Included: Inclusions are visibly present and will be seen clearly when examined.
Included: Inclusions are plainly present and can be easily spotted upon standard examination.
Even though you may not be able to see it with your own two eyes, the clarity of a diamond is a reflection of its overall quality. To ensure you’re getting the best of the best, be sure that when you purchase your own diamond that its clarity has been expertly and accurately assessed by a reputable company.
Where Does this Clarity Scale Originate From?
Similar to GIA’s color scale, the clarity scale was established so that jewelers would use the same terminology, leaving no room for misinterpretation. Before this grading system was implemented, terms like ‘pique’ and ‘loupe clean’ were commonly used to describe a diamond’s clarity.
This wasn’t very descriptive. These days, GIA’s color scale is used all over the world regardless of a jeweler’s location or any language they may use.
How Do Inclusions Come to Be?
A blemish is an external flaw found on a diamond and is usually caused by harsh environments or mishandling during cutting & polishing. An inclusion is an internal diamond flaw that occurs when small crystals get trapped inside of a diamond while it’s still in its formation phase.
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